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    西安人文之旅-Third day PM 华阴市华山

    早上8点从郑州开车出发,窗外景色由平原转为黄土山地窑洞,公路进入短短的一段山西,就到陕西了。南为阴,华山以南称华阴。自古华山一条路,以前的游客一般傍晚从华山北面上山,到达东峰刚好看日出。而现在不走那路了,从东面开辟了公路上山然后乘缆车直达最低的北峰。填饱肚子,准备好手套、地图等装备,我们出发了。首先到某车站,在其二楼出去乘短途车,走一段盘山路到索道口。那索道把我吓个半死。它不像白云山的只略微倾斜倚山而上,下面还有密林感觉不很高。它那索道沿着高耸奇险的华山以60-70度笔直而上,不向前而向上,向下望去能看到起点,脚下万丈深渊,奇峰突起,没密林没雾气,直勾勾的看到如果掉下去有多恐怖。我手一直抓住凳子边虽然明知道是白搭。我认为这比天险还险。   

    首先上天梯,抓住铁链攀上石阶,很断,不很险。然后苍龙岭(据说古人是坐在脊上,两腿夹住石壁而上的),笔直向上,两边是悬崖,只一条两人并排窄的路最陡75度向上长长延伸。看景不走路,走路不看景。一路抓住铁链稳当地走,停下才敢看景,由于又陡又长,走得气喘吁吁,每迈一步都很艰难,感觉再也走不动了,以意志才得以坚持匀速前进。华山的路不是白云山的盘山路,都是在笔直的石头山体上凿出来的径直向上的石阶,窄窄的,下面就是垂直的悬崖。华山多险路就有多险。我们四个第一批首先到达风景最美的西峰。峰顶就是几块巨石,没石阶走上去,首先如爬天梯般抓铁链爬一段,然后攀过错落的几块山石(没铁链没栏杆)到达顶端,顶端没护栏,就原始的那块光秃秃的石头,方圆不到十米,在那里我都不敢站起来,除非站在最中心,只敢坐着。观赏了一阵我们就赶往最高峰南峰。空气清冽,令人神清气爽。我只穿一件毛线衣,一停下歇歇就流鼻水,发现路旁已结冰!走过去南峰不用多少时间,山路也不很陡,轻松到达。顶部跟西峰差不多,一块秃石,方圆几米。帮我们照相那人为取景,一直往后退,把我们吓个半死,赶紧喊他别再退了。南峰下来后我们赶在缆车关闭前下山,Jonah几次怂恿我去东峰和中峰,我都没敢去,天黑得快,怕下山危险。沿原路下山途经最负盛名的险景——长空栈道。我走了最前面一段在挂着长空栈道的绿牌子前拍了个照,就不敢再往前拐了,山体挡着,也没看到险成啥样。开始的一段是突出来的一层窄窄的石路,仅容一人通过,右边是山、左边是悬崖,悬崖那边只有一条铁链没栏杆,危险得很。值得一提的是那只灵性的黄白花猫。大概是那个穿少数民族衣服的妇女养的,胖胖的圆润的很,它走在那段路上看底下的悬崖,一点不怕,我想走过去拍照,虽然我怕猫,更怕走到它旁惊吓了它从而惊吓到我自己,会发生危险,但由于同伴催下山了,我还是迈步走到它旁边,并自言自语道:这猫挡道了过不去。哪知道话刚出口,它彷佛能听懂人话般,转身绕过我踩着悬崖边缘走回去了,镇定灵巧。我谢天谢地,如果它不是绕过我,而是径直朝我扑过来,我肯定会吓得跳起来,说不定就摔到悬崖里去了。

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